Messy city, but lovely upper part
Well, if you don't like traffic, mess and pollution, avoid Zagreb, clearly, and go directly to the upper part of the city, slijeme, the old castle, the Queen spring. Eventually the beautiful cemetery also. This part is like 5/5 stars. The center is really so so. Botanical garden is cute, but hard to park around sometimes. Genrral't the traffic and quality of the air is ruining your experience in the center of the capitale. A real tramway system is needed.